Jesus Christ!
What a week. On the day I was to get the overnight train to Surut Thani I went off for a wander, must’ve walked around for hours seeing the back streets of Bangkok. As usual the Tuk Tuk drivers are trying to hustle you into the back and I was having none of it…. almost none of it. I dunno I was tired, the guy said he’d take me sightseeing, 20 baht for an hour. That’s actually not bad so I thought fuck it, why not? When I get in we start chatting and he says ‘You want to go shopping?’
‘Nah mate, not interested. Just wanna see around a bit”
He persisted though and I was ready to get out again and he leveled with me that he was sponsored by this place and that’s how he pays for his fuel, go in 5 min buy nothing and I’ll take you around.
That was ok, he took me to a fuckin tailor who wanted to measure me up for a suit. I played along for 4 min 59 sec then made my excuses and left. As he took me around he was chatting away (fishing as it turns out) and I said I was off to Koh Phangan for the weekend, he asked had I anything booked. Nope of course not, I was playin it by ear for 7 months and it had served me well enough so far. Next thing ye know I’m in a travel agents getting bullshitted by this dude who I couldn’t be fucked with either but for some reason I bought 5 nights in a luxury bungalow right on the beach. Now I did haggle a bit and got the price down by 1000 baht, but I still normally would’ve walked out so I dunno.
Got the night train down, it was surprisingly comfortable apart from the fact that the bed was 6′ long and I’m 6’4″. A bit noisy but I had earplugs, and they didn’t turn the lights off at all so i didn’t sleep too much so was knackered again the next day. Got the bus, then ferry over to Koh Phangan. It was then that my original fears of being hustled came to fruition, no the island wasn’t booked out, there were at least 5 girls with signs for hostels on the pier. Shite. So hopped on a taxi to the resort, a bit annoyed but not bad. When we got to the resort my heart sunk again, from the road it looked like fuck all. A building site. Really pissed off now I dandered up to the bar, it was nice enough, constructed from local timber with a TV on and a load of camp mattress sorta things to lie on. Went to my room and had the first good news of the day. The room was actually quite nice, newly built funnily enough, had aircon and a double bed. It was walking distance to the nearest town so I went off for a wander to get some lunch as I’d only had a bag of crisps in the previous 18 hours. When I got back there were a few about, two girls from Cork and a lad from Essex. So we sat and drank for the rest of the night and had a bit of craic, ended up paddling in the sea and when I was putting my flip flops back on went face first into the water. Good start then.
The following day having recovered sufficiently, I decided to hire a Moped to go see the island a little. They’re dirt cheap. So off I goes to get my passport outta my bag, not there. I emptied the bag and its contents and carefully checked every crevasse and pocket of every item of clothing like an OCD sufferer for about an hour. Not there, ah can this weekend get any worse? So I knew there was nothing I could do at this stage of the day so I laid about watching films and chatting to some of the new arrivals. All of them were really good craic and to be fair, if it wasn’t for a few friendly faces around I’d probably have gone insane stripping ans re-stripping my bag.
One guy in particular needs a special mention for being an absolute legend. Paul, a young guy from London who’d been drinking with his brother watching a video of the Full Moon party, went home pissed and jumped on a flight in the next day or two with the clothes on his back and an empty rucksack. Every day he had more stories about what he’d been doing whilst we were being boring lying about with a few beers at the resort. On his first night he’d got it into his head that he needed a joint and walked off with the guy who owned the local tattoo shop to find some, went off on an adventure with him, kept coming back to us telling us where he’d been. Later that night/morning he’d wandered down a dirt road to find some locals having a party, so he joined in where they started teaching him thai words and taking the piss out of him. The next day he hired a moped despite being completely clueless in its operation to the point where people had to show him how to start it, I did have a laugh when he had to kick start it and I gave him a hand myself and he was off on his merry way. He’s been found on that scooter ever since in various shapes of drunkeness with more stories that I only wish I could possibly have the same disregard for my own wellbeing to be able to tell. He will be found either dead in the jungle or in prison, but he’ll have a hell of a story to tell.
On the Sunday again, there wasn’t much movement going on until around 7 when we asked to get the football on, one of the guys was a Spurs fan so we watched as City tore them apart. Watching Harry Redknapp do his post match dubbed in thai is head melting. In the hour after that the drinking games came out and the buckets of Sang Som started flowing in style, some had more than others due to the fact we clearly were picking on them during the drinking games ![]()
As the Utd match kicked off I turned the TV up full blast so I wouldn’t miss anything if I got distracted by beer. 8 2 be an Arsenal fan all right. It got to 6-1 before the taxi arrived for the beach party so I was reluctant to go but went anyway. Now having already lost my passport I was taking no chances, so I stashed everything except for some cash and my room key and about 18 of us piled into, onto and over this ute that supposedly held 12. There was no mistaking where this wagon was heading with all us well oiled by this stage and the music pumping. I can’t tell you a lot about the Black Moon Party, I can tell you I had at least two more buckets and they weren’t being measured in, I didn’t see how full the bottle was when she started but it was empty when she finished pouring and it was 3/4 full before the coke and red bull was added (rocketfuel). I can also say there was a lot of luminous paint on the go. Needless to say I was dancing about like a buck eejit and there is a massive black hole in my night, I’m sure I passed out at some point. I remember realising at one point my flip flops weren’t hanging off my arms anymore and when I was walking barefoot a time later (again patchy in between) I realised all my cash was gone, whether I drank it or dropped it is anyone’s guess but neither would surprise me. Now it was a couple of miles back to my bed so I spied the taxi driving off with only a couple of people in it, so I ran after it and jumped on the back of it was rode it up the road, luckily he was going further than I needed to go or I’d have been screwed, I waited till he slowed to turn a corner and jumped. Free taxi!
The next morning events were relayed by two people only, so they may have been making up fun stories about the rest of us but nobody can really remember what really went on. One guy woke up under a tree on a different beach, we know that much. The Sunday was very much a hangover day, I went into town for a fry up and realised I was still pissed as I sat and watched people go about their business. The fry was ok, still not a Mad Hatter. Back to the bar and people were starting to come out and stories got more or less spread but nothing productive happened. In the evening there was some seriously heavy rain and a power cut for about half an hour or more. It was the best thing that could’ve happened to be fair, because we gathered round a table and started playing games rather than zombifying in front of the TV. Two Canadian guys had a game called ‘What If?’ You took a piece of paper and wrote a question, could be anything. ‘What if monkeys could fly?’ then you swap your question with someone else and write the answer to that question, in this case I wrote that ‘the wicked witch of the west would get you’. Then you swap again, you go around clockwise, one asks the question they have in front of them, and the next person reads out the answer to the different question they have in their hand, to hilarious results. It of course got downright filthy but very very funny.
Despite the shit that’s happened, I’m in Bangkok again now, I’ve been to the embassy and got my Emergency Passport, got it stamped at a different place miles away and spent the entire day paying cabs. It got to rush hour so I took my life in my hands and took a Moped taxi, I should probably be dead or at the very least kneecapped by wing mirrors. It was especially hair raising when he started overtaking into oncoming traffic. However, I’m alive, and this is the longest page I’ve wrote yet I think. At least it feels that long, took three separate sittings to finish it and no I haven’t proofread it again and probably won’t. I’ll be back in Thailand and back to Koh Phangan, though I may have one of those gay little belts your grandparents wear when they go on holiday to keep their valuables in.